To become a surfer, I endured ass-kicking after ass-kicking.
Comfortable nowhere, I’d begin my paddle through the breaking waves, seeking safety on the “outside”—the water past where the waves crested. Along this perilous journey, I’d often lose my balance and grip, take a wave to the chin, and find myself buried into the sand. Even in the safety of the outside, I fared no better because when it came time to choose my wave, I frequently went after the wrong wave, and if I happened to choose the right wave, I’d mistime the takeoff, slip off the board, and once more, find myself at the ocean bottom.
Rinse. Repeat.
Though, it got better… after 100 sessions. Years later, I was comfortable just about anywhere in the water. And once outside, I was at peace, saddled with my experiences, and capable of selecting my wave.
When we begin anew—like, start a new career—initiation rites will follow. We’ll come to know the ocean bottom. We’ll feel uncomfortable everywhere. But eventually, we’ll make it to the outside. And once there, we’ll know more about who we are, and perhaps even, be at peace with our life, whether we catch a wave or not.
To livin’ a life we love,
Ryan Fightmaster, MD
